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The team at Blitz Bee Farm is here to help you navigate your beekeeping journey. We hope this information will help you prepare and progress as a beekeeper. We've broken this short guide into four parts to highlight common issues that arise at each stage.
In most areas in Virginia you will need a bear fence. You should set it up and test it before you bring your bees home. Bears have an uncanny ability to find and destroy bee hives. Please don't expect your dog or proximity to your house to keep bears away.
An electric fence charger rated for at least 0.7 joules is our recommendation. We like Gallagher plug in chargers and Parmak 12 Magnum battery powered chargers.
A bear fence doesn’t have to be tall. We use three strand polybraid fences that can be easily stepped over at around 30" high. Keep your strands taut, use plenty of line posts, and ensure your fence is always shocking.
As with all electric fences, pay special attention to the grounding system and inspect your fence frequently for faults.
The basic equipment we recommend for each hive in your first season is:
BOTTOM BOARDS:
We mostly use solid bottom boards rather than screened. Either will work just fine. Like most things in beekeeping, there is debate about the pros and cons of each. We don't see a huge difference from the screened bottom boards in our operation.
DEEP BOXES:
For all around ease of management we recommend the double deep configuration which is a colony (hive) utilizing two deep boxes year round.
Many people, us included, successfully run other configurations such as single deeps, all mediums, a deep and a medium, etc.
Compared to smaller configurations like singles, double deeps provide more margin for error throughout the year and especially while overwintering.
We use mostly 8 frame boxes. We do prefer the 8 frame boxes for everything but queen rearing. Eight frame equipment is a little bit lighter than 10 frame equipment. There is some research suggesting that the 8 frame size is slightly more efficient for the bees to overwinter.
The 10 frame boxes obviously have more space inside which becomes more apparent if you use internal (division board) feeders.
Paint VS Wax Dipping
A good exterior paint on boxes is the best choice for people without a wax dipping tank. Just the outside surfaces and edges of the boxes need to be painted. We don't recommend Eco Wood Treatment because it provides poor protection against water damage.
We wax dip all our equipment and believe it is the best finish for woodenware. Some people have had bad results from factory wax dipped equipment where the manufacturer apparently cut corners during the process.
Properly dipped equipment will be fully assembled (with the glue cured) and then wax dipped for at least 10 minutes around 300°F. Gluing after wax dipping isn't possible. We don't recommend buying wax dipped unnassembled boxes for that reason.
DEEP FRAMES AND PLASTIC FOUNDATION:
Depending on whether you're using 8 or 10 frame equipment, you'll need a total of 16 or 20 frames per double deep. It's a good idea to have some extra frames ready.
We recommend using plastic foundation. We prefer Premier Bee Products foundation. They also make great boxes and frames and are 100% made in America.
Black foundation makes it easier to see eggs and is the common choice for brood chambers. Yellow foundation is commonly used in supers. We will sometimes put yellow foundation in the brood chamber. We don't use black in supers.
Many people use deep frames for the brood chamber and mediums for supers. The main reason is because deep supers can get very heavy.
We use all deeps because it keeps all our frames and boxes interchangeable. It's worth it for us. On the other hand our 8 frame deep supers often weigh 90 lbs.
Some people enjoy foundationless beekeeping but we don't recommend it when you're just starting.
COVERS:
The two main types of covers are migratory and telescoping.
Migratory covers allow multiple hives on custom bee pallets to sit very close without having their covers jam into each other. Of course, they also work perfectly well with hives on regular bottom boards. They have no rim to seal out the elements. They are the simplest and cheapest covers and they are what we use for basically all of our hives. Despite their simplicity, they work great and allow for easy feeding with bucket type (and other) feeders.
Telescoping covers sit on top of an inner cover (not used with migratory covers) and provide a rim that goes all the way around the top of the hive. They offer greater protection from the elements and are the choice of many hobby beekeepers. They are more expensive than migratory covers and typically are used with internal feeders or hive top feeders.
FEEDERS:
You should have a way to feed your bees. Most likely it will be necessary to feed in the late summer and fall to get the bees ready for winter.
The main types of feeders are:
A hive top feeder looks like a medium hive box and can be bought from the bee supply companies. It is the most expensive type of feeder. They sit on the top box and allow the bees to access syrup from inside the hive. They should be removed when not in use. They can hold a good amount of syrup which can be a plus for weekend beekeepers who don't want to check feeders constantly.
Division board feeders fit inside the hive like a frame. They are typically left in the hive year round. They do take the space of a frame or two but they are a good option and are cheaper than hive top feeders.
Buckets and jug type feeders are cheap and work well with migratory covers or any cover with a hole in it. The feeders are filled with syrup, capped with a perforated lid, and turned upside down over a hole in the cover. These feeders are usually homemade with buckets and tint plugs. There are some commercially available jug feeders that work on the same principle. To plug the holes in the migratory covers when we're not feeding we use plastic cap plugs.
HIVE STANDS:
Many people build elaborate hive stands to keep their bottom boards from making direct contact with the ground. We just use basic wooden or plastic pallets. We recommend keeping this part simple especially in the beginning.
Here are a few things to keep in mind:
You will also need some basic equipment for yourself:
PPE can be anything from head to toe protection to just a veil. We usually just wear a veil to protect the face. We don't recommend beekeeping without PPE!
A beekeeping jacket is a good choice for most people. HumbleBee makes decent jackets.
We don't usually wear gloves. If you want to start with gloves get the nicest pair you can afford or they will probably be worse than useless. Nitrile gloves are a cheap alternative that many people like.
A cheap smoker will probably be fine initially but it won't last very long. We like Dadant smokers.
Hive tools are a must for separating boxes and frames. We recommend getting a couple basic ones to start. Avoid the crazy models.
Learn the basics of bees and beekeeping from reputable sources.
We recommend Honey Bee Biology and Beekeeping by Caron and Connor, The Beekeeper’s Handbook, and any of the Essentials series from Lawrence Connor.
Some actual studying is required if you want to be a good beekeeper!
540–308–6162 | Jordan@blitzbee.com
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